Update Day 16, 144 Miles

January 26, 2008

At dinner the previous evening we were joined by the two Canadians who are also traveling on bikes. Darryl is on a BMW 1200GS like David and my old bike and Andy is on a 78 BMW 100RS is believe. It is a bike he bought new years ago and decided to ride it because he knew how to work on it which just happens to come in very handy later in the day. Over dinner and beer we decide to do a group ride to the island of Ometepe the next day at 10.

It is up early again for no apparent reason and it is time for breakfast and more coffee for me. I will never admit this in person but it is not half bad. A few of us have Frank the hotel owner drive us into town to get some money while some others go and inquire about the boat schedule. When we get back we get the news that the ferry could get us all over there but getting us all back tonight is not guaranteed. After a little discussion an alternate plan is hatched. We will now drive North toward Managua and then head West to the beach for lunch and return. Everyone is in agreement so we are soon on our way. We ride for about 45 minutes till we hit the town of Jinotepe where we need to go west. Riding down a little side street we come to a block in the road. It turns out the driver of a small truck pulled a gun out and pointed it at some lady and everyone around surrounded the truck so he could not move until the police got there. Paul who was in the lead and speaks fluent Spanish was able to talk them into creating a wide enough gap for us to squeeze through and be on our way. We now headed down a very potholed road for the next 10 miles or so and shortly before noon we were in the town of La Boquita looking for lunch. The town was pretty empty and we found a place that said they had food and beer. We all sit down and ask for the menu and his reply was "We have fish". Alrighty then, 7 orders of fish it is! Oh and beer. I think that he actually must have grabbed his fishing rod and ran to the water 200 feet away because it took at least an hour for the meals to arrive. When they finally did we found out it was worth the wait.

While we were there we spoke to a few locals and asked them about the condition of the road out the other direction. We were told that it is about the same as the one we came in on. With this information in hand and full bellies we were now heading south towards the town of Veracruz. The road immediately turned into dirt yet we continued on. Before we knew it we the road was getting worse and worse. It would have been fine if we were all riding dirt bikes and had a lot of off road riding experience, but it was not the case. As it turns out Paul and I were the only ones with dirt experience and some of the bikes have no business being in a dust storm much less riding of dirt. And let’s not forget about Norm riding the 800+ lb motorcycle. Now we find ourselves over an hour into these roads and feel we have reached to point of no return, we must continue. Paul and I were having a fun time as was Darryl but the others were not prepared for this and the fun stopped as soon as they swallowed their last bite of fish.

At this point everyone is tired but the terrain just keeps getting worse and people are going down. We come to a few river crossings and deep sand sections and given the fact that I have off road experience and the lowest on the totem pole as far as age goes, I get chosen to ride some of the other bikes across as well. The one bike I refused to ride was Norms monster but I never needed to because he never gave up. This continues on for a few hours and we are loosing the sun. We break off into groups of two and just keep on moving. It is now dark and David and I are being the sweepers of the group when we come to the last obstacle of the trip. I see Andy and Darryl on the other side of a wide river so it must not be that deep. What I did not realize was they could not get Andy´s bike started and it is that deep. I go first and make it 10 ft from the edge and the bottom drops out from underneath the bike. The water is up to the bottom of the gas tank and I think the air intake for the engine is an inch below that. I make it 2 feet from getting out and the bike dies. I crank it for a few moments and it starts to show signs of life again. With it now running I ride out the rest of the way and turn around to see David already walking across the river. I guess I am not done yet. I walk back across and put David’s bike through the same punishment mine just had. Now we all have made it past that I find out that Andy’s bike will not start. I look for my flashlight which of course is dead and I have no extra batteries. We rob Andy’s camera of the batteries and we now have light. We then decide that David and I will continue on to catch up with the others and I will come back for the other two so they do not have to ride out alone. A few miles later we catch up with the rest of the group and it is now 7pm. We come to the conclusion that they will all go back to the hotel and I will go back to be with the other two. Just as we were separated Andy and Darryl come along. I guess his ignition got some water in it and it just needed some drying out. Now we are all one group again so we ride back to the hotel arriving at 8:30.

Sorry for the long post as I am sure it is a boring read. I know I have not been able to convey a lot of the things that happened but it was still one of the more exciting days.

Update Day 15, 275 Miles

January 25, 2008

Today was an early start. The night before I had spoke with a few of the guys who were planning on riding to Guatemala and then returning to Panama and I decided to tag along with them. We met for breakfast at 7 am in the local town square where we reintroduced ourselves. The ring leader of the group was Paul on a KLR 650, a resident of Panama for the last 15 years, I think. He is a transplant from the States who at one time was in San Diego and a desert racer. Next up was Norm he is originally from England and has been in Costa Rica and Panama for the last 6 years or so and he is riding a Honda Valkyrie 1500. Norm´s bike will play a neat roll in the days to follow. Then there was David who is on a BMW 1200GS who has been living in Panama for the last year and a half. Last but not least is Ken from Missouri. He has flown down to buy a 92 BMW 100GS from Paul and Paul has agreed to give him a tour of Central America as part of the deal. And now there is me as the fifth wheel.

After getting acquainted for a bit it is time to ride. It is a nice 30 minute ride over the mountains to the ocean. This is the same road that we did last night but it is much better when you can see the surroundings. Once we regroup at the Pacific we break off into three groups because we are going on a dirt road and the dust is bad. First to go is Norm. We gave him a bit of a head start because he is riding a cruiser bike which weights in excess of 800 lbs. Next are Paul and me. We went together because we would be riding at a faster pace and then it was David and Ken. The road was crowded with cars and trucks so there was a lot of passing to do but Paul and I had a good time anyway. At the other end we had planned to meet up at the gas station which we thought everyone knew. As it turns out Ken never got the info. We waited at the gas station for an hour before Paul went to find him. Of course soon after Paul leaves Ken pulls up. He said he had ridden past where we were two other times before he saw us or we saw him. Shortly after Paul arrives and we are all together again.

Now that everyone is refreshed we go on. We make it about 2 miles and we come to a bridge we have to cross. It is small so we have to wait for traffic coming the other way to go first. We cross with no problems and move on. Another mile down the road David is slowing down. As I get close to him I see his rear tire it flat. It turns out he had something puncture his tire when crossing the bridge. Lucky for us, or planned for them, there is a tire repair shop 100 feet from where we stopped. 10 minutes and $2 later we are rolling again. We stop once for lunch and then we make it to the Nicaraguan border with plenty of daylight to make it to our destination for the day, or so one would think. We all get through with ease except for Norm. He is having problems exiting Costa Rica and has to wait until 6 pm for the shift change to get some paperwork filled out. $60 later and at 6:10 he is in Nicaragua and the border is getting ready to shut down for the evening. He makes it thorough at 6:50 with 10 minutes to spare but it is now well after dark, again. When leaving the border area you have to show your paperwork to another person before leaving. Paul has done this many times and has found out that there are many things they charge you for with no authority. He tells us this when we go past the last inspection because they want you to pay a $1 local tax and will be waiving at you to stop but then tells us to keep on going. Sure enough as soon as we cross they are waiving us down and running in the streets trying to block us but we keep on moving and saved ourselves a whole dollar! Another 30 minutes goes by and it is 7:45, we are now at The Hotel California in San Jorge Nicaragua. The hotel is owned by another former US resident by the name of Frank, a nice guy who just got tired of the rat race and is living a nice quiet life running a hotel. We also met two Canadian brothers who have been traveling for a few months named Andy and Darryl.